Common Cosmeceutical Ingredients

And Typical Strengths

Desquamating Agents

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)

AHAs are desquamating agents that are a specific kind of organic acid commonly found in nature.  They are employed to reduce fine wrinkles and eliminate keratosis and cholasma.  The generally accepted mechanism of action of AHAs is that they reduce corneocyte cohesion and boost water absorption.  The result is an increase in cell turnover, greater cutaneous hydration and a reduction in hyperkeratosis and hyperpigmentation.  The strengths listed are for daily use, but higher strengths can be used for peels.

Glycolic Acid (for daily use 10%-15%) found in sugarcane.  Glycolic acid has a smaller molecular size and weight increasing its penetrative capacity over some of the other AHAs. 

Lactic Acid  (for daily use 10%-15%) found in milk

Mandelic Acid  (for daily use 10%-15%) found in bitter almonds

Vitamin A

Retinol Molecular Film Fluid 0.1% (0.1 to 3%) this is a molecular dispersion of pure vitamin A (retinol) which is designed to keep the retinol more stable as well as assist in permeation.  Even though this liquid has 0.1% retinol, it gets into the skin very well.  Retinol is not only a desquamating agent it also increases collagen levels and cutaneous elasticity by inhibiting UV-light induced expression of collagenases and metalloproteinases. 

Peptides and Proteins

Peptides are protein molecules that play a vital role in the skin’s healing process.  They send out signals to the body when the skin is damaged and in need of repair.  Peptides used in skin formulations have a small molecular size allowing them to penetrate the skin quickly and effectively.  They must be used continually or the skin will return to its previous state. 

Acetyl Dipeptide-1 Cetyl Ester Solution (up to 3%) this is the solution of the peptide containing 1% of the active.  It desensitizes the skin, putting it at ease.  It has the ability to modulate the perception of temperature, chemical aggressions, and tactile sensations.  It decreases cutaneous micro-contractions and relaxes underlying muscles. It can be used in post peel and post sun products as well as other conditions of irritated skin.

Acetyl Hexapeptide 3 Solution  (up to 20% but 5 to 10% is typical) this is a solution of 0.05% of acetyl hexapeptide. This peptide exhibits significant skin permeation.   It works to reduce wrinkles by disrupting the nerve signals sent to tense muscles below the dermis, relaxing them, smoothing the overlying skin.

Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3 (1 to 10% but 5% is typical) this is a solution containing 125ppm of the peptide.  It stimulates the natural biological processes to reverse the aging process of the skin.  Palmitoyl pentapeptide works to regenerate the skin’s upper layers by stimulating collagen production, thickening the epidermis.  Some studies suggest that this peptide is as effective as retinol in improving the effects of photoaging but without the side effects often associated with retinol.

Glycine soya protein (3 to 7%) a protein that is obtained from the soybean.  It is a good moisturizer with some antioxidant effect.  It provides protection against UV damage.  Glycine soya protein inhibits leukocyte and fibroblast elastase maintaining skin firmness. 

Vitamins

Ascorbic Acid (1 to 20%) considered a potent antioxidant that provides protection from photodamage from the sun.  It augments the skin’s ability to neutralize free radicals produced by ultraviolet rays thereby, preventing photodamage.  It becomes an integral part of the skin and is unaffected by bathing, exercise, or makeup.  It is very effective in promoting collagen synthesis.

Vitamin E Acetate (0.5 to 5%) resides in the oil phase of the emulsion.  In this form it is a decent antioxidant.  It is often employed for stabilization of other ingredients within formulations.

Niacinamide (up to 5%) a B3 vitamin that is important for cellular respiration, energy production, and proper utilization of nutrients.  Topically Niacinamide helps to increase elasticity, decrease fine lines and wrinkles, and decrease facial hyperpigmentation. It inhibits the transfer of melanosomes to the epidermal keratinocytes.  It prevents the skin from losing water and it increases free fatty acid levels and ceramide in the skin. It is also effective in the treatment of acne.

Panthenol (up to 2%) the alcohol form of vitamin B5.  Acts as a lubricant on the skin giving a soft, smooth appearance.  It is converted to pantothenic acid as it goes into the deep layers of the skin.  It is non-irritating  form of vitamin B and is very good at “plumping up“ the skin. 

Sodium-L-Ascorbyl-2 Phosphate  (1 to 20+%) this is an ester of vitamin C that is water soluble and very stable in water solutions.  An enzyme in the skin cleaves the molecule and converts it to ascorbic acid.  It has skin lightening properties and has been studied in acne.

Growth Hormones

Kinetin  (up to 0.2%) a plant derived growth hormone that signals the old skin cells to produce more collagen giving the appearance of smoother, plumper  skin.  Kinetin helps the skin to act more youthfully promoting new cell growth.  It helps the skin to retain moisture.  It has a similar mechanism of action as the retinols.

Components of the Extracellular Matrix

Glycosaminoglycans (1 to 5%) a group of chemically related polysaccharides which are major components of the extracellular matrix and of connective tissue.  They decrease the action of the enzymes that breakdown collagen and elastin; thereby, increasing the flexibility of the skin.   Moisture is retained into the stratum corneum by stimulating the collagen fibers to retain water resulting in skin that is highly moisturized.  Glycosaminoglycans aid in decreasing the appearance of dark circles, spider veins, skin irritation, and protect against the effects of UV radiation.  Clinically shown to improve  rosacea  at levels of 2 to 5%.  It is very effective in city areas with lots of pollution.

Sodium Hyaluronate (up to 0.1%) found naturally in the skin and joints and other tissues.  It is often used within formulations of vitamin C to increase its effective penetration.  It is a good water binding agent thus an effective moisturizer.

Antioxidants

Idebenone  (0.5 to 1%) an antioxidant.  It is a synthetic derivative of CoQ10 with greater stability.  It is molecularly smaller in size than CoQ10 (about 60% smaller) so skin penetration is enhanced.  It protects against radical formation and cell damage under low oxygen cellular stress situations.  It can be used in skin lightning.

Ferulic Acid (up to 2%) it is found in the leaves and seeds of most plants.  It provides topical protection against UV radiation-induced skin damage protecting against photoaging and skin cancer.  It improves the chemical stability of vitamins (C & E).

Anti-Irritants

Yeast Extract (up to 5%) stimulates fibroblasts to make more collagen.  It reinforces the natural skin defense system as well as cell renewal.  It inhibits metalloproteinases.  Yeast decreases the irritation of AHAs and it has anti-inflammatory effects as well.

Peucedanum Ostruthium Extract (1 to 3%) “queen of the plant” traditionally used in wound healing.  It is an anti-inflammatory and can be used in after-sun products.  It is an antioxidant and is used for moisturizing.

Sunscreens

Titanium Dioxide is an inert earth mineral used in cosmetics as a thickener, whitener, lubricator, and sunscreen ingredient.  It protects the skin from UVA and UVB radiation.  It is considered to have no risk of skin irritation. 

Fatty Acid Esters

Polysorbate 80 functions as an emulsifier and also has mild surfactant properties.

Bases

Chrysaderm® Night Cream a patented rejuvenating skin cream that is oil-free, non-comedogenic, hypoallergenic, allergy tested, clinically tested, paraben free, and fragrance free.  It contains high concentrations of quality cosmetic ingredients to fight the many environmental and internal influences in the aging process. Ingredients:  Purified Water, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Emulsifying Wax, Sorbitol, Glycosaminoglycans Solution, Dimethyl Siloxane Hydroxyalkyl-Terminated, Chrysanthellum Indicum Extract, Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Extract, Glycerin, DL-Alpha Tocopheryl Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice Powder, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyl-Taurate/VP Copolymer, Edetate Disodium, BHT, Methylchloroisothiazolinone/Methyl Isothiazolinone

VersaBase® Lotion and Cream a great moisturizing base that is oil-free, paraben free, propylene glycol free, and non-comedogenic.  It stimulates the skin’s natural moisturizing barrier. 

VersaBase® Foam (50-100%) a solution of amino-acid based surfactants that is gentle on the skin.  It leaves the skin with an especially smooth feeling after use.  At lower concentrations the foam may be left on the skin without washing off to be used as a moisturizer.  At higher concentrations up to 100% it may be used as a cleanser.  It requires the use of a foam dispenser.